Off-the-beaten-path Bangkok (1)

Bangkok still fascinates me after three visits. The appeal of Theravada Buddhism, which is central to the lives of most Thais, as shown by the many rituals and practices that are part of daily life, is still strong and going. While each Thai thrives to achieve spiritual merit in the present life so that it will favorably influence their next life (a spiritual motif I come to respect and believe in recent years), thus permitting an existence that will be characterized by less suffering and ultimately lead to nirvana, or enlightenment, a strong thread of animism and superstition persists. This brings me to the first off-the-beaten-path Bangkok activity–The Bangkok National Museum, where for a small fee meditation class is offered in English.

Consider that conversations carried in English is not that rife in Bangkok, the city has some of the best selections of titles in English language, fiction and nonfiction; and the reading ambiance is assuring. The staple Asia Books has stores all over the city, brandishing different themes in various neighborhood. My favorite camp-out is the main store on Soi 33 off Sukumvi with three levels of books in all subjects. I kicked off my last visit by assaulting my wallet at this place and purchased titles that are still among the highlights of my bookcases:

• Jim Thompson: The Legendary American by William Warren. The intriguing story of the American Thai silk magnate whose end was mysterious.
• Bangkok Then & Now by Steve Van Beek. A harcover book with many photos both old and new showing how the city has changed in many ways, but also remain the same in others.
• Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture by Philip Cornwel-Smith. A must-read for potential visitors and tourists.
• Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art by Steven Pettifor. Brimming with colorful illustrations, this is the only book that offers insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary visual art scene.
• A History of Buddhism in Siam by Prince Dhani Nivat. Written by a most respected scholars in the country, this will be one of the books I’m bringing with me.

Stone’s throw away from the backpacker haven Khao San Road is an old district Banglamphu, where you’ll find shophouses and roadside cafes. Although these venues are also catered toward tourists and farong (foreigners), they are more tugged away from the busy charivari of the main streets. The cafes are great places to sit down, read a book, and while away the day. Used bookstores have also stippled the quiet neighborhood and their selections of paperback mysteries, fiction, and magazines are unbelievably extensive and updated. A few doors down are a roti shop (roti is a very flat Indian pan bread eaten with curry goat or chicken) (see lower left), an art gallery and a massage parlor. I usually read for a couple hours, write some postcards, take a stroll down the embankment, come back and wait for the Thai girl who does make-to-order pad thai (lower right) on a push-cart show up after dark.